Epic times in Northern Israel--Day 2

Our adventure recommenced early on Friday morning, but before continuing on to our next destination, there remained a few more sites to see in Tiberias. First among them was St. Peter's Church, which was unfortunately closed. After begrudgingly picking up our travel-companion, Jocks, we proceeded instead to the Tomb of Maimonides. Maimonides was an extremely important Jewish medieval thinker, something like the Thomas Aquinas of Judaism. The tomb and memorial were beautifully constructed, though I did not dare take a picture inside the synagogue which contains Rambam (abbreviated shorthand for Maimonides)'s remains. Many other important Jewish thinkers were also buried at the site, and I was able to sneak a photograph of two orthodox Jews praying at another tomb.

Having visited the most important rabbi of the medieval period, we proceeded to visit one of the most important rabbis of the tannaitic period (the formative period of rabbinic Judaism), Rabbi Akiva. R. Akiva is one of the rabbis most prominently featured in the Mishnah, one of the most important Jewish texts. Another rabbi's remains--R. Moshe Chaim--are also at this site. Again, I snuck (sneaked?) a picture.

Now well within visiting hours, we returned to the northern shore of the Sea of Galilee to visit the sites which had been closed the previous evening. We began with Capernaum (also spelled Kfar Nahum), the fishing village that was a major site of Jesus' ministry, as well as the home of Simon Peter. The complex is now operated by the Franciscan monastery located on the site. Capernaum houses a beautiful modern church (first picture below), built on top of the remains of an ancient Christian church (second picture below), itself supposedly erected on the foundations of Peter's house. Note that it was near this site that the ancient Galilean boat (see day 1) was discovered.

Capernaum also contained the impressive remains of a 4th-century Roman-style synagogue, pictured below.

From Capernaum, we drove to the village of Tabgha, which sports two important churches--the Church of the Multiplication and the Church of the Primacy of Peter. The Church of the Multiplication (first picture below) is venerated as the site at which Jesus fed the masses; the rock below the altar (second picture below) is thought to be that upon which Jesus laid the surplus of food. Notice the ancient mosaic floors!

The Church of the Primacy of Peter commemorates Simon Peter's special place of honor among the apostles (interpreted in the Roman Catholic tradition as proof for the authority of the Pope). The church altar is built atop another stone alternatively thought to be that upon which Jesus laid the multiplied food. This church is also associated with one of Jesus' resurrection appearances. The second picture below is the exterior of the church; the third is Shiri attempting (though unsuccessfully) to walk on water.

From the Primacy of Peter, we ascended to the Church of the Beatitudes, where Jesus delivered his most famous sermon ("blessed are the poor..." etc.). The only thing more stunning than the church itself was its impressive grounds, consisting of well-groomed gardens overlooking the Sea of Galilee.

Santi next took us to Tsfat (also called Safed), one of the holiest cities in Judaism and the birthplace of Kabbalah, Jewish mysticism. As the highest city in all of Israel, Tsfat was great for photographs. We began at the citadel (first picture below) which overlooked the sprawling, very religious city.

We spent most of our time in Tsfat in the sleepy Artist's Quarter, a formerly-Arab neighborhood that is now home to a number of painters (also sculptors and jewelers) and their studios (pictured below). The area was not unlike Old Jaffa. Most studios were closed in lieu of the impending Shabbat, but a few were open, and Shiri, Dana and I enjoyed admiring the spectacular paintings (Jocks was not so enthusiastic). We bought a few small prints to support the artists.

By this time, Jocks had overstayed his welcome, and mercifully, he remained in Tsfat while we continued on to Nazareth. Nazareth was, of course, the biblical home of Jesus, but today is a large, energetic Arab city. Our hostel, in the old city of Nazareth was a restored 19th-century mansion. The reception room, with its hand-painted ceiling, are pictured below.

Most of the holy sites of Nazareth were closed by the time we got to the city, but on our way to dinner, we stumbled upon Mary's Well, the ancient spring at which it is believed the angel Gabriel appeared to the Virgin Mary and announced that she would conceive. (Two other churches--see the forthcoming post for day 3--also claim to contain the site of the Annunciation.) Unfortunately, Mary's Well was tagged with Arabic graffiti.

After dinner, Dana, Shiri, and I sampled baklavah from the famous Arab sweet-shop located outside of the old city. As you can guess from the picture below, it was absolutely delicious.